Longing for Longmorn
The revered Speysider steps out from the shadows
Themed tastings often take the form of horizontals and verticals—horizontal being a comparison of similar products from different producers, and vertical featuring multiple offerings or vintages from the same producer. Both approaches are illuminating.
With single malt Scotch, it’s rare to do a vertical tasting centered around a change in production style.
Starting in the 1960s and accelerating in the 1980s (a.k.a. the decade that led to all our problems), malt distilleries began moving away from direct-firing their pot stills—once powered by wood, coal, or gas—in favor of indirect firing via steam. The switch, while more cost-effective and safer, came with trade-offs. Steam heating allowed better temperature control, reduced the risk of scorching, and made production less labor-intensive. The result? Greater consistency.
Unfortunately, that consistency came at a cost. Many distilleries observed a shift in flavor profile; the distillate wasn’t as rich. Some, like Ben Nevis, refused to change at all. Others, like Glenfarclas, switched back to direct-firing to preserve character. Glenfiddich opted for a hybrid approach. More recently, the tiny distillery Glen Garioch has reverted to direct-firing under new ownership.
Longmorn distillery eventually made the switch—one of the last to do so—during a refurbishment between 1993–1994. Why it took so long remains unclear, though I speculate that the owners at the time, Seagram (now Pernod Ricard), were reluctant to alter one of their core malts used in the ever-popular Chivas Regal blend.
For over a century, Longmorn has been prized as a blenders’ malt, never enjoying the spotlight or extensive official bottlings that Speyside distilleries like Balvenie, Macallan, or Glenlivet have had.
But the shadows can hide real gems. Longmorn is held in high regard by enthusiasts. It’s a quintessential Speyside whisky: soft, plush, and rounded, with ripe, even overripe, orchard and tropical fruits. Yet it’s far from one-dimensional—herbal and savory notes often play a supporting role. It performs well across a variety of cask types and can age spectacularly, as shown in many independent bottlings, particularly by Gordon & MacPhail who bottled some impressive +40yr juice from the 1960s.
Much of its signature weight and fruitiness comes from its fat, onion-shaped stills with gently descending lyne arms. When Masataka Taketsuru, a founder of Japanese whisky, built Yoichi distillery in Sapporo, he supposedly modeled its stills after those of Longmorn, having worked there briefly.
Despite its pedigree, Longmorn is not a boutique, small distillery. With a production capacity of 4.5 million liters annually (typically producing around 3 million), it’s available—if you're willing to hunt. And since the switch to indirect firing occurred relatively recently, it’s possible to compare pre- and post-transition bottlings.
The big question: Can I tell the difference, and is one style better than the other?
I assembled five Longmorns: two direct-fired and three indirect-fired. Let’s dig in.
Longmorn 11yr – A.D. Rattray (2007–2019)
This Longmorn is from bottler A.D. Rattray’s “Cask Collection” series. Bottled for the U.S. from a bourbon hogshead, it was distilled Sept 18, 2007 and bottled at 58.1% ABV on March 29, 2019—making it 11.5 years old. Sample graciously provided by a Reddit user. This is actually my first Longmorn under 18 years old.
Appearance – Amber -2.5; NCF and NCA. Bottled at 58.1% ABV. (1/1)
Nose – At this proof, it’s hardly surprising that there’s alcohol prickle. But it also bursts with milky vanilla, lemonade, pineapple, and Granny Smith apples. A fairly classic bourbon Speysider, but with elegance. Cinnamon and light amber maple syrup add some earthy texture. White grapes and quince reveal themselves. With water, the nose doesn’t change much—just loses a bit of vibrancy. The expressiveness is what I love, and it avoids becoming one-note. (2/3)
Palate – Medium-bodied. Doesn’t take long for the alcohol to slam into your tongue. With water, it becomes sour-sweet with green apple, sultanas, and honey. Creamy but not lactose-butyric like a few other malts. Not jam-packed with various flavors, but it has great texture and grip. (1.5/3)
Finish – Black pepper and cinnamon coupled with alcohol. With water: juicy and mouthwatering, but finishes a bit chalky. Notes of chervil, oolong tea, black pepper, cinnamon, almond liqueur, and pickled ginger. On the short side. (1.5/3)
Conclusion – 6/10, 83/100 – A straightforward malt whose drinking pleasure punches way above its analytic score. Bright without being flimsy and a great counterpart to the older Longmorns I’ve had. This really benefitted from the addition of water.
Longmorn 18yr – Secret Speyside Series
This UK release was a blind sample shared by a whisky friend. Naturally, I guessed wrong at the time—but it’s good to return to this one now. It utilizes a mix of American oak casks of varying freshness levels, so it should be a solid representation of Longmorn.
Appearance – Amber +1; NCF, but with added color. Bottled at 48% ABV. (0.5/1)
Nose – Light maple syrup and cooked apples. Fennel and bay leaf. Brioche. Musty. Cognac-y with raisin, plum, and toffee. Gets more floral with water. (2/3)
Palate – Medium-bodied with a creamy syrupiness. At this age, there’s a classic unhurried arrival and development. It stays sweet throughout—apples, and curiously, yellow onions. Honey too, because why not? (2/3)
Finish – Easygoing with black tea, black pepper, and apple jam. Black licorice and coffee provide accents. (1.5/3)
Conclusion – 6/10, 83/100 – Unsurprisingly, the official bottling is the most accessible and easygoing of the lot. It checks the right boxes, but nothing truly stands out. A good whisky—but not a great one.
Longmorn 20yr – Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice (1999–2020, Cask No. 60472)
This one comes from a refill American hogshead, and was distilled post-transition to indirect firing. I scored it from California for a rather reasonable $160 considering the age.
Appearance – Amber +1; NCF and NCA. Bottled at a surprising 60.7% ABV after 20 years. (1/1)
Nose – At full strength, this is on the quiet side. Vanilla for sure. There’s a lot of fruit here, but it’s also up against a lot of oak. Pear flesh (no skins), apricot, faint pineapple, and tarragon. Also black pepper, a hint of cocoa, and musty oak like opening up an old dresser. Water unleashes creamy malt, sandalwood, thyme, and clover. Vanilla and a fruit basket stay center stage. Light amber maple syrup. With a bit more volume and definition, this could’ve climbed higher. (2/3)
Palate – This needs water—just too hot. Water brings out the creamy, syrupy side. Juicy Fruit bubble gum, apple crisp, quince. Very juicy and mouthwatering—almost riesling-esque. The palate texture keeps this from being too typical. (2/3)
Finish – Still spicy even with water. Black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, English breakfast tea. Also mustard—a first for Longmorn with me. Spice eventually gives way to tinned pineapple, wood pulp, Darjeeling tea, and jalapeño. Long, but still boozy. (2/3)
Conclusion – 7/10, 87/100 – At the initial stages this delivered on what was advertised but did not bring anything extra to the table. As I’ve let this bottle sit for months, I had hoped that the oak would ease off, but what’s happened instead is that I’ve adjusted my expectations. It’s not a malt that is immediately accessible. When I sip this, I imagine sitting in an ampitheatre of oak with singing soloists from various fruit families. It’s powerful but slow, and showcases the hallmarks of Longmorn well although it never leans into all of them. In short, a whisky I want to love more than I actually do.
Longmorn 21yr – Douglas Laing Old Particular (1992–2014, DL10188)
From a very dark refill hogshead from the direct-fired era.
Appearance – Amber +2; NCF and NCA. Bottled at 50.7% ABV. (1/1)
Nose – The deep color sets expectations appropriately. Oaky and extremely nutty. Wood polish, mahogany, pecans, marzipan, rotting fruit, dates, and a touch of sulfur. (2/3)
Palate – Very creamy and very much in line with the nose. Not earthy—just oaky and nutty. Apples and apricots are now stewed with cinnamon, near-burnt caramel, and dates. The syrupy Longmorn character is fully engaged. (2.5/3)
Finish – Barley reclaims some territory. Notes of black pepper, ginger, cinnamon, brown sugar, marzipan, candied orange peel, and Marcona almonds. (2/3)
Conclusion – 7.5/10, 89/100 – Walks a fascinating tightrope: extremely focused yet expansive. This is a whisky with depth, not breadth. Wood-driven and nutty, but balanced by syrupy, creamy texture. I’d guess this came from a refill Amontillado cask, but regardless it’s an excellent showing of direct-fired Longmorn.
Longmorn 25yr – SMWS 7.207 “Cocktails by Candle Light” (1993–2018)
From a refill ex-bourbon barrel, at the very tail end of direct-fired Longmorn. Bought at auction for $200+ after fees and shipping. SMWS Longmorns from this era seem decently well-regarded on WhiskyBase, so let’s see.
Appearance – Amber -1.5; NCF with NCA. Bottled at 53.1% ABV. (1/1)
Nose – Oak shavings galore. Cardamom, fennel fronds, dill, underripe peach. Call it the power of suggestion, but I get candlewax—and nut shells, too. SMWS says pistachios, and that feels right. Dry and herbal—makes you wonder where the fruit went. (1.5/3)
Palate – Hoping for fruit? It’s sort of here. Neat: compressed, with fruits and herbs duking it out. Water helps—apple, pear, grapefruit, fennel—but it remains dry, with sweetness only on the fringes. (1.5/3)
Finish – Textbook aged refill ex-bourbon: more oak, vanilla, grapefruit bitterness. Oak tannins tilt it toward imbalance. Water helps curb the bitterness. (1.5/3)
Conclusion – 5.5/10, 80/100 – If the Gordon & Macphail one is just missing a little something, this is the opposite. It’s too much in many areas: too herbal, too dry, too bitter, and too tannic. If this is direct-fired, then it’s missing the syrupy quality, which is a shame. Considering the price I paid too…ouch.
Final Thoughts
Maybe consistency matters or maybe it doesn’t. The worst whisky of the flight was direct-fired… but so was the best.
If you want to find your own Longmorn bottle and experiment, you’ll want to talk to a retailer you know that has a wide selection and thus may be able to special order some in, or you’ll want to check Wine Searcher or various auctions. Gordon & Macphail do a regular series at standard age statements (probably easiest to find the 15yr), which serve as gateway options.